Field Notes from Tokyo
Less a city you fully see, more a place you begin uncovering
I’ve been procrastinating writing this post. Partly because I worry that once the last bit of Japan content is shared, my daydreams reliving our trip will begin to fade — but also because Tokyo is so sprawling and culturally rich that it feels nearly impossible (and perhaps a little irresponsible?) to condense it into a single post.
Our two-week sojourn to Japan was originally supposed to include seven days in Tokyo, four in Kyoto, and three in Osaka. After exploring Tokyo on our first day, we called an audible and rearranged our trip to skip Osaka and return to Tokyo early. In truth, my mind was blown. It was incredible to see just how clean, vibrant, and efficient a city could be, with the appropriate infrastructure in place.
This was our first time visiting Tokyo, and even after ten days of exploring, we barely scratched the surface of everything the city has to offer. Planning the trip felt overwhelming at times, so if you’re a fellow Tokyo first-timer, hopefully these recommendations will serve as a helpful place to start.
Stay
We transferred our Chase Ultimate Rewards points to Hyatt and booked The Grand Hyatt Tokyo for the first five nights of our trip. The hotel is located in Roppongi, a quiet, affluent district with easy connectivity to other areas of the city.
Usually I opt for the efficiency of a shower, but a long bath after walking 25,000 steps a day was my saving grace. Our hotel room had a spacious soaking tub, steam shower, and comfortable bed waiting for us at the end of every day. The hotel gym opened at 6am, so I took advantage of my wonky sleep schedule to spend each morning journaling in the hot tub. We would happily stay here again.
For our second stint in Tokyo after returning from Kyoto, we booked a hotel in Shinjuku. While the hotel itself was nice, Shinjuku wasn’t my favorite area to stay. It felt very loud and touristy compared to Roppongi, and the main station (one of the largest in the world) managed to confuse us nearly every single time we passed through it. I’d recommend spending an evening exploring Shinjuku, but wouldn’t choose to stay there again
Dine
It rained cats and dogs during our second stint in Tokyo, and on one such afternoon we decided to take a taxi to a Tabelog top-rated tonkatsu spot for lunch. The taxi driver did a double take when we shared the address with him, asking if we were sure that was the right location. We confirmed and off we went, but thought it was odd that he dropped us off at the end of the street rather than at the actual address. Nevertheless, we kept our heads down and hustled through the street under a shared umbrella, rushing into the restaurant to get out of the rain.
The tonkatsu was absolutely delicious. Thick slices of tender, juicy pork with a light crust of crispy panko, served with perfectly seasoned crisp, crunchy cabbage on the side. It was hearty and savory, exactly what we were craving after being out in the rain all morning.
The rain cleared by the time we left the restaurant and we finally understood why the taxi driver asked us to clarify the address again — we were in the heart of Kabukichō, Shinjuku’s red light district. But trust me when I say that Katsu Pulipo is worth the excursion!
Our other food experiences were less surprising but just as delightful. We took advantage of our jet lag and visited Tsukiji Outer Market around 7:00am the first full day in Tokyo, where we enjoyed toro sushi and wagyu steak that absolutely melted in our mouths, melon cubes that could have been candy, and delicious tamagoyaki that perfectly balanced salty and sweet. It was much busier by about 8:30am so my advice would be to go early.
Tucked on a beautiful side street in Shibuya, Soba Maren was our favorite noodle spot of the trip. Orders are placed on a kiosk outside and guests wait until one of eight seats inside the tiny restaurant opens up. The noodles were thick & chewy, made in house from domestic wheat and whole grain flour. They serve tare (broth-less) soba, but that doesn’t equate to a dry dish — a bright, raw egg yolk combines with a rich, buttery sauce to create a creamy, addictive experience… we ate there three times!
Seeking out pizza in Japan was not on my bingo card, but I happily acquiesced when I saw that a highly rated spot was just down the street from our hotel. We put our names on the list and waited about 45 minutes before being seated at Pizza Savoy. We split a bright salad to start, then each put down our own twelve inch personal pizza. It is Neapolitan-style with Japanese flair — thin, crispy crust, perfectly wood-fired, and only the freshest ingredients.
Despite using the Timeshifter app to help us acclimate to the new time zone, our jet lag was no joke. Luckily there were a plethora of coffee shops to help us caffeinate through the pain:
Brewman Tokyo in Ginza, a tiny café serving beans from its own micro-roastery, ended up being our favorite coffee stop of the trip. Jake and I both agreed it was probably the best latte we’ve ever had: impossibly smooth, rich without being heavy, and so tempting to gulp down in a single swoop.
The quaint, cozy coffee stand that is Brewman Tokyo in Ginza. Loved the blue glazed tiles on the facade. Fuglen, a Scandinavian café that transforms into a vibey neighborhood bar at night, was our most frequented coffee shop of the trip. The coffee is excellent (if you stop by in the morning, don’t miss the brown bread and cheese for breakfast) but I’d argue returning for a nightcap in the evening is even better.
If you visit, please order the brown bread and a Fuglen Gimlet for me! Onibus Coffee in Meguro City was another favorite discovery. The coffee is delicious and the small outdoor space felt like a true gathering spot for the community.
Managed to snap a photo in a rare moment when the line died down.
As a Type 1 Diabetic, I was honestly nervous about the food in Japan. Between the rice, noodles, and incredible desserts, the cuisine is much more carb-forward than my typical diet. But this trip ended up being a huge boost to my confidence — I was able to enjoy all of the delectable food while still managing my blood sugar through a combination of careful insulin dosing, sugar squats, and a LOT of walking. Super proud of myself and very thankful for a partner who is always willing to walk the long way home.
See
Our trip to Japan fell during the last week of March and first week of April during the heart of cherry blossom season. With more than 1,000 cherry trees and countless food and drink vendors set up in the area, Ueno Park was our first stop.
After wandering through the park, we popped into The Tokyo National Museum. The moment we stepped onto the museum grounds, the energy shifted from lively and chaotic to quiet and calm. We only managed to see a fraction of the collection, but it provided such a helpful foundation for understanding the depth and longevity of Japanese culture and history. Don’t skip the gardens, where several historic teahouses from different centuries are tucked among the greenery.
From there, we made our way to Sensō-ji. I wish we had visited first thing in the morning — the temple was stunning, but by the time we arrived around 3:00pm, the crowds were intense.
We learned our lesson after that and visited Meiji Jingu shrine twice, both times before 8:00am to avoid the crowds. During our Saturday morning visit, we witnessed a solemn procession of more than 50 priests making their way into the main shrine for morning prayers. Watching them move quietly through the grounds was one of the most memorable moments of the trip.
Aoyama Cemetery ended up being the sleeper hit for hanami in Tokyo. The cherry tree-lined road cutting through the city-owned cemetery was incredibly peaceful — honestly, not a bad place to spend eternity.
Another under the radar spot: Kyu Asakura House and Garden, which I covered in greater detail in an Instagram Reel.
Sadly, the Nezu Museum was closed to prepare for a new exhibition during our stay, so we immediately added it to the list for next time. I also would have loved to tour a sumo stable. We missed a major sumo tournament by just a few days — next trip!
Shop
The shopping in Japan could practically be classified as an Olympic sport, so I’m breaking it down into two categories: secondhand shopping and traditional retailers.
The highlight of my secondhand shopping experience was exploring the thrift stores and flea markets. The Bookoff Plus location in Nishigotanda had the best overall selection of any thrift store I visited, along with some of the most compelling prices. I also had good luck finding vintage clothing at the Bookoff Plus near Ogikubo Station, though be forewarned: they didn’t have a women’s section.
As for flea markets, the Shibuya Antique Market was beautifully organized and offered a thoughtfully curated mix of items. I shared a full breakdown here. On a future trip, I’d love to plan a visit around the Kawagoe Shrine Sale, held on the 28th of each month — it comes highly recommended by antiques expert Jacqueline Wein, who previously lived in Tokyo.
Two other secondhand shops I especially enjoyed were Hedy Vintage in Daikanyama, where I found two vintage designer bags in incredible condition, and Tokyo Hotarudo, an antique shop specializing in pieces from the 1920s.
Lastly, there were several book shops & paper goods stores where I could have happily spent hours digging through shelves: the T-Site in Daikanyama, Itoya in Ginza, and Traveler’s Factory in Meguro City. Traveler’s Factory is located near the famous cherry blossoms along the Meguro River Promenade, which makes for an especially lovely way to spend a morning.
Tokyo is less a place you fully see and more a place you begin uncovering. Even after ten days, it felt like we had only skimmed the surface, which is part of what made the city so special. Tokyo leaves room for curiosity and gently encourages you to return.
I’m not sure it’s possible to capture the feeling in a single post, but I do know this: it’s joined the ranks of Paris where before the trip was over, I was already grieving the fact that I’d eventually have to leave.
Until next time, Tokyo.